Belaying is a means of protecting a climber, rappeller, worker or litter (and attendants) from falling. Ideally, the belay device or hitch should be securely attached to a bombproof anchor which is separate from the standing line anchor. The belayer should not use his body in the belay system if there is any way to avoid doing so. Occasionally, this rule may have to be violated, however, be aware that both the climber and belayer have a much greater risk of severe bodily harm or even death when utilizing a body belay. A severe fall by the climber may cause back or internal injuries to a body belayer due to the sudden load which may be imparted to the belayer during a fall. It is also possible to knock the belayer’s feet out from underneath him during a fall, thereby allowing the climber to fall. If at all possible, keep the belayer’s body out of the belay system. This greatly reduces the chance of a mishap occurring. Belaying should be performed with a suitable belay device or with a Munter Hitch, not your body.
Remember that most belay devices are very sensitive to changes in rope diameter or construction. What works good on a 10mm rope may not work as well on a 11mm rope, or from one manufacturer’s rope to another. Know your equipment and what works together best. Ultimately, it is the user’s responsibility to seek out proper instruction and to practice safe climbing techniques.
Falling while climbing is extremely dangerous. All belay devices, hitches or methods should be considered as a last resort that may help you to survive a fall. However, no belay method, device or hitch can absolutely guarantee your safety in a fall.
CMI
Micro Belay Brakes
|
Micro Belay Brakes |
· Breaking strength 6,000 lbs.(2722kg)
· Weight dual .37oz.(11g)
· Weight Single .25oz.(7g)
· Lightweight
· Forged from 7075 aluminum
· Designed for one person load
· Made
in
Catalog #MBP101 Dual 9mm Micro Belay Brake
Catalog #MBP102 Single 11mm Micro Belay Brake
Petzl
Grigri
|
Petzl Grigri |
The Grigri is a belaying device for safeguarding a leader or
a second. It is used in a similar way to a figure eight, but it possesses an
integral security system that locks into place under sudden force. This
security system does not, however, remove the need for vigilance from the user.
Maximum shock load: 1540 to 1980 lbs.(700 to 900kg). Weight 7.75oz.(221g). Made
in
Catalog #D14 Grigri
Rock Exotica
Soloist
The Soloist is designed to
provide, in conjunction with a backup knot, a means of self belay for the solo
climber. The rope feeds through the Soloist automatically as the climber
advances. It will handle a very hard fall and it is easy to back up. Includes a
comprehensive 16 page instructional booklet which describes how to use the
Soloist for top roping, lead climbing, falling on the Soloist, falling on your
backup and rappelling. Made in
· Breaking strength 5000 lbs.(2267kg)
|
Rock Exotica
Soloist |
· Each tested to 2000 lbs.(907kg)
· Weight 10oz.(285g)
· Rope size 3/8”(10mm) to 7/16”(11mm), lead rope
· Machined, no castings
· Color ‑ Red
Catalog #Soloist
Rock Exotica
Solo-Aid
|
Rock Exotica Solo-Aid |
Similar in function to the Soloist, but with an important difference. With the Solo-Aid, the user must manually feed the rope through the device as height is gained in the climb. While this requirement might seem to be a drawback, a benefit of the design is the Solo-Aid’s ability to lock even when inverted. A head-first fall with the Soloist is extremely dangerous as the rope simply slides through the device, possibly allowing the climber to hit the ground. Note: This is not a device for novice climbers, it requires a strong understanding of the advanced rigging techniques used in modern rock climbing. Weight 6.6oz.(189g).
Catalog #302140 Solo-Aid